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Experiencing Norwegian Culture
by Lori Albrough
While
we were originally attracted to the Fjordhorse breed because of the
horse itself, as a result we have now twice traveled to Norway to
visit the Stallion and Youngstock Evaluations, and in doing so we
have also fallen in love with the country.
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Lori standing in front of the lovely restored Norwegian farmhouse at Nedreberg.
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Being
in Norway, especially Western Norway where the Fjordhorse is from, is
like being in a totally different world from what we are used to.
First off, the views are spectacular and they are everywhere.
Everywhere you look there are rugged mountains, sheer cliffs, deep
clear blue water, gorgeous skyscapes of glorious puffy clouds,
waterfalls, dark green trees, white snowcaps. The list of scenery
goes on and it is endless. We found the Norwegian people to be very
open, friendly and welcoming, and while the food is very different
from what we are used to at home, it is quite wonderful, varied, and
delicious.
On
our last trip to Norway one of the high points of our whole visit was
having the great good fortune to stay at Nedreberg, the farm of Amund
and Torild Nedreberg in Stryn (pronounced Streen). This farm has been
in Amund's family for many generations. There has been a farm
at Nedreberg since the 14th century, and the farmhouse and
farm buildings date from the 18th and 19th
century.
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Torild shows Julie and Lori a book about Stryn. The dining table set for our traditional Norwegian meal is in the foreground.
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Amund
and Torild have built themselves a new house up on the hill, and then
restored the original farmhouse that had belonged to his family all
the way back through the years. The restored farmhouse is now
available as a bed and breakfast for visitors wishing to stay and
experience Norway and the Norwegian culture. My husband Stefan and I
were among the lucky group of first guests to use the house, staying
there with our friends Julie Will and Darryl Wolford, and Peg and
Doug Knutsen.
An
extra bonus for us staying at Nedreberg is that Amund is a Fjordhorse
breeder, as were his ancestors before him. What a wonderful
opportunity to learn from someone with so much history of the breed!
Amund had three Fjord mares in his barn, and one of them was Rånja,
a Rådar daughter who was the dam of two of the top stallions in
Norway. Rånnar (Enar x Rånja) won first in quality of the
five year old stallions the year before our visit, and during our
stay Rånn, a full brother, had the highest scores on the five
year old performance tests and placed second in quality overall. This
grand mare was expecting a foal during our stay - she was in foal to
Kviablakken, a Felix son - and we were hoping to have the extra
pleasure of being present for the birth.
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Julie sitting in the log seat in the living/dining room. Note the bookcase behind her which is full of studbooks and stallion catalogues. Heaven!
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We
were totally charmed by the ambience of the restored farmhouse, which
had all authentic and traditional flooring, wall coverings,
decorations and furniture, in addition to the new modern comforts.
Everything was so peaceful and the house had a relaxed aura that
seemed to block out the worries of the modern-day world. Outside all
the windows were the trademark Norwegian stunning views.
Inside
we had a full kitchen (stocked with breakfast foods so we could help
ourselves before heading out to the horse shows in the morning) and a
beautiful living/dining room complete with a stone fireplace, antique
furniture, and framed photos of the ancestral family on the wall.
There was also a laundry room with washer and dryer and full bathroom
with shower on the main floor. Upstairs, which was accessed by means
of a very steep staircase, almost a ladder, there were two bedrooms,
one with room for two people and one with room for four, as well as a
quaint slanty-ceilinged half-bath.
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The upstairs (loft) bedroom with original beds - but lengthened to accommodate today's taller people.
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We
asked Amund what he remembered most about growing up in our charming
little farmhouse and he said "How cold and drafty it was in the
winter". We had a laugh at that because now that it is restored
and modernized it is so nice and snug and comfortable.
One
of the exciting features of our house was the bookcase FULL of
Norwegian Fjord studbooks, dating back well into the 1800's.
All these used to belong to Amund's father and grandfather. We
were in heaven! We put them all into order and then sat for hours,
poring through, looking up the horses in our own horses'
pedigrees and making notes about what the studbook said about them:
colour, measurements, and the evaluators' comments (all in
Norwegian of course, but we put together a little English/Norwegian
glossary of common horse terms). What's more, all the stallion
catalogues and youngstock catalogues from each year's
evaluations were there too, complete with the marginal notations that
Amund's ancestors had made while at the show. For a group of
Fjordhorse enthusiasts like us, this was a living history book and
unparalleled opportunity.
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Lori and Julie hard at work researching in the studbooks.
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Amund
and Torild were wonderful friendly hosts who made us feel very
welcome and took the time to introduce us to Norwegian culture. One
evening they prepared for us a glorious meal of traditional Norwegian
foods. They set up the large table in our house with place settings
for all six of us, plus themselves, two of their teen-aged children,
Torild's mother, and a local lady who came to sing the
traditional Norwegian songs and tales during our meal. While we ate,
the lady would take breaks from her own food to stand and tell us a
little background about the song she was about to sing, and then she
sang the traditional tales, with musical accompaniment provided by
the Nedrebergs' son. I can't tell you how lucky and
special we felt to be able to experience the Norwegian culture in
this way.
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Our host Amund with Rånja's newborn filly by Kviablakken.
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From
our home-base at Nedreberg in Stryn, we traveled on separate days to
the youngstock shows at Førde and at Breim. Then, with some
reluctance, we left Nedreberg to go to Nordfjordeid, where we stayed
for the four days of the youngstock and stallion shows held there.
There is nothing quite like being a Fjordhorse lover in Nordfjordeid
at the time of the stallion show, as everything going on in the town
seems geared to the animal we love, and the town's population
swells with a contingent of Fjordhorse lovers and experts coming from
around the world.
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Darryl playing the drum that was used in the traditional Norwegian storytelling and music playing.
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During
our stay at Nedreberg, Amund spent a night or two sleeping in the
barn, as Rånja had gone off her feed a bit and was showing
signs of impending parturition. Unfortunately, we didn't get
called out of bed at night to witness any miracles. However, on our
last day in Nordfjordeid, Amund came and told us that Rånja had
foaled a beautiful healthy filly. Amund was very pleased with the
filly, saying she incorporated the best features of both Kviablakken
and her dam, just what he had been hoping for. After we left
Nordfjordeid to make our way back to Oslo, and from there to home, we
stopped at Nedreberg to see the lovely new filly, a grand-daughter of
the stallion Felix, who now stands in Ontario and is contributing to
our own breeding program.
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One of the many beautiful views from the Nedreberg farm.
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While
at Nedreberg, Stefan and I enjoyed the opportunity to hike on the
trails leading up the mountain from our farmhouse. We climbed up and
up through rocky outcroppings and evergreen trees, stopping every now
and then to admire the beautiful vistas behind us. We had been told
about the milk house which was a small house way up the mountain
where the cows were taken to summer pasture and usually a girl would
go up there to stay and milk them. We decided to try to walk up to
see the summer pasture milk house. We walked for a long time, but we
didn't make it. We later found out that it was quite a ways
further! One day we would like to return to Nedreberg and ride the
Fjordhorses up to the summer pasture.
To
anyone planning a visit to Norway and wishing to learn about and experience
Norwegian culture, I would heartily recommend getting in touch with Amund and
Torild Nedreberg (they both speak excellent English). They have a website at
http://www.nedreberg.no.
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